Unique and mysterious Venice

“Grand School”
of San Rocco

The Schools (“Scuole”), not learning institutions as the name implies, rather professional or charitable associations, were meeting places for Venetian citizens, both patricians and common people.  [..continue]

There were schools for the Arts and Professions or the Grand Schools that provided assistance to the very poor or orphans. An example is the School of San Rocco, which in the 1500’s constructed the great Renaissance building containing masterpieces by Giorgione, Titian and Tiepolo, but above all the marvelous cycle of paintings by Tintoretto, defined by some art critics as “the Sistine Chapel of Venice”.

Basilica of Santa Maria Gloriosa dei Frari

It is one of the biggest religious complexes in Venice, equipped with a church and two cloisters, designed by Palladio and Sansovino. The church holds 17 monumental altars, with masterpieces  [..continue]

by Titian (including the biggest altarpiece in Venice), Giovanni Bellini, Donatello and other masters. The same Titian was buried here in 1576. Here you can also see and hear the last surviving example, as well as one of very few in Italy, of two choirs with working historical organs. Since 1815 the convent has been the State Archive, which preserves all the documents of the Venetian Republic from the 9th century to its fall in 1797, and is one of the most famous archives in the world.

Campo San Polo

Surrounded by beautiful buildings, at its center is one of the largest wellheads in the city, leading to its use for the hunting of the “molai” bulls. In fact, on the last Sunday of Carnival the tradition was to free the bulls in the courtyard of the Doge’s Palace  [..continue]

and above all here in San Polo, a “sestiere” (neighborhood) with the biggest square (campo) in Venice and seat of the “Art of the Beccai” – the butchers – who organized the hunt each year.

For a pleasant wine and food stop there are the bàcari…

…typical bars where you can taste “cicheti”, savory appetizers made of fish, meat and vegetables accompanied by a good glass of wine.

The Rialto markets

Before reaching the famous bridge of the same name, dedicate some time to a pleasant stroll among the famous markets in Venice. Located in a neo-gothic building is the fish market, called Pescarìa , which has been offering Venetians, as well as just curious people,  [..continue]

a lively display of freshly caught fish for centuries. In the immediate vicinity is the Erbarìa, which is the fruit and vegetable market, with its colorful stands. The last famous market of Rialto is the Beccarìa – the meat market.

Suggestion: while walking around the markets, stop at one of the countless bàcari (typical Venetian bars) or osterias dotting this area and try some traditional Venetian dishes. If you do not have much time take a quick break with a “cicheto” (Venetian appetizer) and an “ombra” (glass) of good wine.

Rialto Bridge

Until the mid-1800’s it was the only bridge to connect the two shores of the Grand Canal. Its construction was concluded in 1592 by Antonio da Ponte, an excellent Venetian engineer whose project was surprisingly preferred to the projects of much more  [..continue]

renowned colleagues, such as Sansovino, Michelangelo and Palladio. The bridge, supported by around 12,000 elm wood piles and with an arch spanning 28 meters, for centuries has housed 24 boutiques, laid out on the sides of the ramps.

St. Mark’s Square

The illustrious square has been the center of Venetian political and religious life for centuries and today is still the stage for the most important events in Venice. Famous worldwide, it houses the most beautiful buildings in the city, one after another in an almost  [..continue]

tracking shot. St. Mark’s Basilica towers in the background with its isolated bell tower, the tallest in the city. On the northern side stand the Old Palaces of the Procurators, home of St. Mark’s state magistrates with representative functions, alongside the Clock Tower, while on the southern side the New Palaces of the Procurators, started by Scamozzi and finished by Longhena.

Curiosity: there used to be a stage between the two columns in St. Mark’s Square for executions, where the people sentenced to death faced the Clock Tower and “waited for their time”. An unfortunate young baker ended up here, unjustly accused in the 1500’s of murder and executed shortly before his innocence was discovered. Since then a red lamp light, placed on the Basilica façade, is always lit as an eternal apology to that victim of Venetian justice.

St. Mark’s Basilica

Born as the private chapel of the Doge, the church became the center of religious life in the city with the arrival of St. Mark’s relics in 828. Its complex and developed exterior shows the fascinating influence from the churches in Constantinople,  [..continue]

a city conquered by Venice during its crusades and center of its trade routes. The interior is decorated with precious marble and countless mosaics. The ones with a gold background are famous and among the main treasures of the church.

Suggestion:do not miss the famous Pala d’Oro (Golden Altar Screen) behind the main altar, a jewel of Byzantine and Venetian goldsmith’s art, studded with precious gems.

In Venice everything
has a different name:

roads are calli, canals are rii and squares are campi…
But don’t worry if you get lost:
all roads lead to St. Mark’s!

Clock Tower

Located between the Old Palace of the Procurators and the Basilica, this tower holds a marvelous clock, which apart from representing the 24 hours in a day also portrays the signs of the zodiac and the lunar phases in scintillating gold leaf. Madonna on the throne is above [..continue]

the clock face. During the “Festa della Sensa” – the Ascension – an angel with a trumpet and the three Magi appear from inside the door to its right and bow their homage to the Virgin. On the floor above the great Lion of St. Mark and at the top stand two large bronze statues that strike the hours, which Venetians call the “Mori” or Moors, due to their dark color.

Curiosity: according to legend, the creator of the Clock Tower was blinded so he could not repeat the same wonder for other foreign powers.

St. Mark’s Piazzetta

To the right of the Basilica stands St. Mark’s Piazzetta, where the stately Doge’s Palace, one of the symbols of Venice, rises. In front of it is the beautiful Marciana Library by Sansovino, built in the 1500’s to hold precious Greek manuscripts.  [..continue]

The famous architect also built the Zecca, the strongbox of Venice, made entirely of stone because fire was always used inside to cast metal.

Curiosity: the two granite columns of the Piazzetta that support Saint Theodore and the Lion of St. Mark, the two patron saints of the city, were brought directly from Constantinople, but it is said that originally there was a third one, however it sank during the transfer. The technique used to hoist them up was also mysterious and brilliant.

The Doge’s Palace

Perhaps the most emblematic place in the city, the Doge’s Palace, built by excellent architects of the period, was the private residence of the Doge and the seat of the highest Venetian courts. The Porta della Carta (once main entrance) gave access  [..continue]

to the marvelous courtyard with the Scala dei Giganti (Staircase of the Giants) where the Doges swore their loyalty to the Republic. Also very famous is the nearby Scala d’Oro (Golden Staircase), which led to the apartments of the Doge. Walking through the building leads you to discover the halls of the Great Council Chamber, the Senate, the Collegium, and many others, where crucial events in Venetian political and administrative live took place, surrounded by the countless works of art by masters such as Titian, Veronese, Tintoretto, Carpaccio, and Bellini, whose masterpieces best represent the power and splendor of the ancient Serenissima Republic. The Doge’s Palace also houses the Justice Halls and the Old Prisons, narrow cells where even Giacomo Casanova was imprisoned, succeeding, however, in escaping with a spectacular escape.

Curiosity: the loggias that face the sea hide a column with a more worn down base. Try to discover it and do a little experiment. The column offered the last chance of salvation to sentenced prisoners: who was able to go around its base without falling was in fact granted clemency.

Mark’s Bell tower

Called “el paron de casa” (the owner of the house), originally it was a sighting tower, then the tolling of its famous bells became an announcement of the starting and finishing times of Venetian activities, death sentences and the possible attacks

from pirates and enemies. The bell tower, almost 100 meters in height, is supported by over 3,000 poles. A gilded statue of a 5-meter angel stands at its top, indicating the direction of the wind.

Suggestion: do not miss the most spectacular view of the city you can have by climbing the endless steps up to the bell tower loggia (for the less courageous there is a convenient elevator). Here Galileo Galilei presented his telescope, showing the Doge fishermen in Chioggia.